Long distance treks in Sinai: coast to coast I.
Originally posted on April 15, 2016
The Bedouin who live in the Serabit el Khadim area have been organising long distance treks for tourists for many decades, across the peninsula to the coast on the other side at Ras Shaitan (near Nuweiba), Abu Galum Protectorate (near Dahab) or Nabq Protectorate (near Sharm el Sheikh). These safaris, involving walking and camel riding for up to two weeks, usually went this direction, from west to east. While it is possible to do the journey the other way around, the Bedouin on the Gulf of Aqaba coast do not seem to offer these programs. These days this type of long distance treks are rarely organised, if at all, and restrictions might be in place at certain locations. The area and whole South Sinai are safe, the security measures are only a precaution to assure the safety of the visitors. The best, as always, is to enquire with local Bedouin operators, they know what is possible at the time. There are several good Bedouin operators in Abu Zenima, Ras Sudr and Serabit el Khadim, with the family of late Sheikh Selim Barakat (allah yerhamu) the most prominent. Of course shorter programs are also organised in the Serabit el Khadim area, but these long treks are mighty routes worth talking about. One day tourism will rebounce, and these routes will be hiked again by adventure seeking tourists.
Treks start from the settlement of Serabit el Khadim usually, which is reached by car from the Gulf of Suez, but it might be possible to walk/ride camel all the way from the coast. Always many alternative routes exist, below are the main ones described briefly.
1. From Abu Zenima to Ras Shaitan
The trip usually starts in Abu Zenima, but there is also a route via Wadi Gharandal near Hamam Faraun. Serabit el Khadem is the first important attraction, an archaeological site with the Temple of Hathor and turquoise mines from Pharaonic times found atop a flat hill. From here the route leads through the big open sandy plain known as El Ramla, along the impressive wall of the Tih Plateau. Jebel Hmeyer offers stunning views on the desert, and the Forest of Pillars (Jebel Fuqa) at the foot of Jebel Raqaba is an interesting geological sight. The route carries on across El Ramla, until it reaches the southern-most head of the Tih Plateau, Jebel el Dalal. There are alternative routes that go over parts of the Tih Plateau and Jebel el Dalal, instead of going below them. From this area the most direct route is via Wadi Zalaqa, but longer routes exist via the Guna Plateau and the Nawamis–Ein Khudra area. Jebel Berqa and Ein Umm Ahmed are on the main route and can also reached from Ein Khudra, but either way the Coloured Canyon is the last important destination. From here it’s a day’s walk to reach the beaches at Ras Shaitan, located near Nuweiba.
2. From Abu Zenima to Abu Galum Protectorate
The first leg of the route is the same as described in the previous trek, until Jebel el Dalal. The usual and most direct route from here is via the plain of Elu el Ajramiya, Wadi Saal, and the Jebel Barqa (Jebel Makharum) area. A detour could be made to visit the Nawamis area, which can also be reached over the Guna Plateau. The route then continues down in Haduda Sand Dune, near Jebel Barqa, and through the wadis of the Abu Galum protectorate. You can finish either at the Laguna or Ras Abu Galum. A short walk from here along the coast leads to the Blue Hole just north of Dahab.
3. From Abu Zenima to Nabq Protectorate
The first leg of the route is the same as described in the previous treks, until the plain of Elu el Ajramiya. From here the route turns south to the Blue Desert near the town of St Catherine, then carries on to Ein Kid. From this oasis often a car is taken that was arranged in advance to do the last leg of the journey to Nabq Protectorate, but you could also walk/ride camel all the way to the beach via Wadi Rtama unless restrictions are in place.
There is an alternative route from the Forest of Pillars via St Catherine, but it’s difficult logistically, since the Jabaleya tribe doesn’t let camels of another tribe through its territory. So treks from Serabit el Khadim stop at Sheikh Awad, and if you want to carry on you have to swap camels. Coming this way, you could see the Monastery of St Katherine and Mt Sinai, before taking another route that leads to Ein Kid, from where it is as described in the previous paragraph.
If you are interested in a safari to the Serabit el Khadim area, Bedouin operators I know include Rabie Barakat of 1 World Tours and Yossef Safari, both from the family of Sheikh Selim Barakat. If you know other good operators offering program in the area, you are welcome to make a suggestion.
Related posts: Long distance expeditions, safaris, treks | Coast to Coast II.
The Bedouin who live in the Serabit el Khadim area have been organising long distance treks for tourists for many decades, across the peninsula to the coast on the other side at Ras Shaitan (near Nuweiba), Abu Galum Protectorate (near Dahab) or Nabq Protectorate (near Sharm el Sheikh). These safaris, involving walking and camel riding for up to two weeks, usually went this direction, from west to east. While it is possible to do the journey the other way around, the Bedouin on the Gulf of Aqaba coast do not seem to offer these programs. These days this type of long distance treks are rarely organised, if at all, and restrictions might be in place at certain locations. The area and whole South Sinai are safe, the security measures are only a precaution to assure the safety of the visitors. The best, as always, is to enquire with local Bedouin operators, they know what is possible at the time. There are several good Bedouin operators in Abu Zenima, Ras Sudr and Serabit el Khadim, with the family of late Sheikh Selim Barakat (allah yerhamu) the most prominent. Of course shorter programs are also organised in the Serabit el Khadim area, but these long treks are mighty routes worth talking about. One day tourism will rebounce, and these routes will be hiked again by adventure seeking tourists.
1. From Abu Zenima to Ras Shaitan
The trip usually starts in Abu Zenima, but there is also a route via Wadi Gharandal near Hamam Faraun. Serabit el Khadem is the first important attraction, an archaeological site with the Temple of Hathor and turquoise mines from Pharaonic times found atop a flat hill. From here the route leads through the big open sandy plain known as El Ramla, along the impressive wall of the Tih Plateau. Jebel Hmeyer offers stunning views on the desert, and the Forest of Pillars (Jebel Fuqa) at the foot of Jebel Raqaba is an interesting geological sight. The route carries on across El Ramla, until it reaches the southern-most head of the Tih Plateau, Jebel el Dalal. There are alternative routes that go over parts of the Tih Plateau and Jebel el Dalal, instead of going below them. From this area the most direct route is via Wadi Zalaqa, but longer routes exist via the Guna Plateau and the Nawamis–Ein Khudra area. Jebel Berqa and Ein Umm Ahmed are on the main route and can also reached from Ein Khudra, but either way the Coloured Canyon is the last important destination. From here it’s a day’s walk to reach the beaches at Ras Shaitan, located near Nuweiba.
2. From Abu Zenima to Abu Galum Protectorate
The first leg of the route is the same as described in the previous trek, until Jebel el Dalal. The usual and most direct route from here is via the plain of Elu el Ajramiya, Wadi Saal, and the Jebel Barqa (Jebel Makharum) area. A detour could be made to visit the Nawamis area, which can also be reached over the Guna Plateau. The route then continues down in Haduda Sand Dune, near Jebel Barqa, and through the wadis of the Abu Galum protectorate. You can finish either at the Laguna or Ras Abu Galum. A short walk from here along the coast leads to the Blue Hole just north of Dahab.
3. From Abu Zenima to Nabq Protectorate
The first leg of the route is the same as described in the previous treks, until the plain of Elu el Ajramiya. From here the route turns south to the Blue Desert near the town of St Catherine, then carries on to Ein Kid. From this oasis often a car is taken that was arranged in advance to do the last leg of the journey to Nabq Protectorate, but you could also walk/ride camel all the way to the beach via Wadi Rtama unless restrictions are in place.
There is an alternative route from the Forest of Pillars via St Catherine, but it’s difficult logistically, since the Jabaleya tribe doesn’t let camels of another tribe through its territory. So treks from Serabit el Khadim stop at Sheikh Awad, and if you want to carry on you have to swap camels. Coming this way, you could see the Monastery of St Katherine and Mt Sinai, before taking another route that leads to Ein Kid, from where it is as described in the previous paragraph.
If you are interested in a safari to the Serabit el Khadim area, Bedouin operators I know include Rabie Barakat of 1 World Tours and Yossef Safari, both from the family of Sheikh Selim Barakat. If you know other good operators offering program in the area, you are welcome to make a suggestion.
Related posts: Long distance expeditions, safaris, treks | Coast to Coast II.
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